The historic market town of Faversham is just over an hour from St Pancras station between Whitstable and Canterbury. It has a creek and distinguished maritime history as well as more than 500 buildings listed with English Heritage. The highest and most visible of these is the church of St Mary of Charity, featuring an ornate corona spire, visible from most of the town. One chilly March day, Catriona the Parish administrator agreed to take me up onto the church roof for a better look.